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Larvae are found on several species of Acacia (Leguminosae), Uapaca (Phyllanthaceae), Ozoroa concolor (Anacardiaceae), Pinus (Pinaceae), Diospyros (Ebanaceae), Salix (Saliaceae), Populus (Saliaceae) and more. In captivity they feed on many plants [including several non-native ones too] such as Liquidambar (Altingiaceae), Prunus (Rosaceae), and Quercus (Fagaceae)
The larvae of Gonimbrasia tyrrhea are highly social when they are immature, although the final instar becomes solitary. They are frequently observed feeding in large groups. Their appearance is quite remarkable – they have a black (melanic) cuticle that is covered with pale white (to light blueish) scale like structures that are typical for larvae of the genus Gonimbrasia. They are also covered with very fine bristle-like patches of silvery hair.
The first instar of this species, I typically raise them in airtight plastic containers with cuttings of food plant (sometimes placed in water bottles to keep them fresh). Make sure to add ventilation holes and if you can, a layer of moisture absorbing paper towels. Remove excrement every 2 days; replace food plant every 3-4 days with fresh plant.
After the first instar, I recommend a more dry enclosure. Big larvae don’t like the humid air in plastic boxes; they need more ventilation. This allows the container to dry out indoors. Humid plastic boxes tend to work for young larvae that need more humidity; but not beyond the 2nd or 3rd life stage. Place them in a pop-up cage, or big plastic container with the lid removed (replace with netting).
The first two instars (L1, L2) are social and live in groups. The later instars become more solitary (L3, L4, L5) although they are very tolerant of high densities.
The third, fourth and fifth instar can be raised in a similar setup. Personally, I chose to use a large plastic container, with a generous layer of paper towels on the bottom (to absorb moisture and to make it easier to clean). Then, I cut branches of food plant (in this case Liquidambar or sweetgum) and I stuck them in empty bottles and cans. This keeps the leaves fresh; think of flowers in a vase!
In captivity, you can use moist paper towels, or soil substrate to successfully allow the larvae to pupate.
The pupae can easily be stored in humid substrate that does not grow moldy. I prefer to use vermiculite. For the pupae, it could be worth it to try and simulate the African dry season / wet season – perhaps it would result in the moths eclosing more predictably! In east Africa, typically the dry season runs from May to September, with June and July relatively cool and August and September hot and humid. The (warm!) wet season begins in November and finishes in March. April is autumn and a transition month while late September to early November is spring.
