Handmade Sharp Elegant Blue Sword Folded Steel Red Blade Japanese Samurai Katana For Sale

Handmade Sharp Elegant Blue Sword Folded Steel Red Blade Japanese Samurai KatanaKatana (刀): A general term for the traditional sword with a curved blade longer than 60 cm (there is no upper length limit but generally they are shorter than 80 cm), worn with the edge upwards in the sash. Developed from the uchigatana and the sword of the samurai class of the Edo period (1600s to late 19th century).Samurai katana as a weapon is famous for its beautiful shape. It is used as art collection and the symbol of samurai soul. Our sword allows you to make a collection or to send to friends as a present.This katana can be taken apart fully at anytime for maintenance purposes, you can disassemble the sword by taking out the pegs from the handle.KATANAOVERALL LENGTH: 103 cm / 40.6'BLADE LENGTH:70 cm / 27.6'TSUKA LENGTH:26 cm / 10.24'BLADE WIDTH:3.2 cm / 1.26'BLADE THICKNESS:0.7 cm / 0.28'BLADE HRC:55BLADE CRAFTBLADE CRAFT:fully handforged,water quenching,folded 11 times by 1060 carbon steel,electroplated redBLADEMATERIAL:carbon steelBLADE SHAPE:ShinogidukuriNAKAGO:full tangBO-HI: no grooveHAMON:natural ripple patternMEKUGI:2 bamboo pegsSHARPNESS:★★★★☆MIRROR EFFECT: wood core, hineri makiSAMEGAWA: white imitated rayskinTSUKA-ITO: blue synthetic silk cordFUCHI / KASHIRA / MENUKI:zinc alloyTSUBA(HAND GUARD):zinc alloySEPPA / HABAKi:brassSAYA: blue scabbard, wrapped with blue synthetic silk sageoPACKAGE1 sword with saya1 black cotton bagNOTICESword display holder(stand) isnotincludedManual measurement error range 1-2 cmFOLDED STEELThis means that the carbon steel is folded by 11 times to produce 2048 layers. The higher quantity of layers provides more unique and mystical hada patterns, which defines and displays the craftsman’s experience and knowledge of traditional metallurgy passed down from generation to generation. Only the utmost skilled bladesmiths (Toushyo) and polishers (Togi-shi) can bring out the beauty and life from the Shinsakuto live blade. During the forging process, all of the slags and impurities of the steel are burned off and folded forged to an uncompromised strength with an sharp cutting edge. The final carbon content is 1% and the hardness is an impressive HRC 55°on the Rockwell Scale. This high quality blade can easily cut through tatami straw mats or bamboo for Tameshigiri or Batto-do use. ABOUT ELECTROPLATINGPlating (Electroplating) is the use of electrolytic principle in some metal surface on a thin layer of other metal or alloy plating process, is the use of electrolytic action made of metal or other materials adhered on the surface of the parts of a layer of metal film technique to prevent metal oxidation (rust), improve the wear resistance and electric conductivity, reflective resistance, corrosion resistance, copper sulfate, etc.) and improve aesthetics, and so on.ENGRAVING SERVICEHOW TO DISASSEMBLE A JP SWORDSWORD MAKING PROCESSESNOTICEDELIVERY DETAILSENGRAVING SERVICEIt is freefor engraving English words,Chinese characters and Japanese Kanji.You need pay additional $20 for engraving patterns (dragon, lion, etc.) or other logos.HOW TO DISASSEMBLE A JP SWORDSWORD MAKING PROCESSES

Forming

Swords can be shaped by a variety of metalworking techniques.The primary techniques are forging and stock removal.
Forging uses heat to bring the material to a malleable state. The material is then hammered to shape, typically using hammer and anvil together with specialized set and fuller tools depending on the particular technique.

Stock removal shapes the sword from prepared stock that is larger in all dimensions than the finished sword by filing, grinding and cutting.

Quenching

After the blade has been shaped, the sword would be quenched. We quench our swords in either water or oil. Water quenching produces a tougher edge which can also be hardened further more using clay. Blades quenched in oil are still considerably hardened and do have superior flexibility compared to a water quenched blade.

The more rapidly a blade cools down, the harder it becomes. Thus, when a hot blade enters the water, the water also gains heat and the blade will cool more gradually. Therefore, the first part of the blade that enters the water will be the hardest. Therefore, the technique of quenching was also very important. If a blade has any flaws from forging (air bubbles, ash), it will break immediately during the quenching process.

Tempering

After quenching, the sword will be quite tough and brittle, with little flexibility. To overcome this, the blade would undergo a tempering process. The blade would be reheated to a certain temperature degree then allowed to cool naturally. The blade would be slightly less tough afterward but have a greater degree of flexibility – the art would be to perfectly balance the blade for toughness, sharpness and flexibility.

Modifying Shape



Finishing

Finishing encompasses polishing, decorating, and crafting and assembling the hilt, guard and sheath.
The swordsmith would be most concerned with the state of the blade itself and possibly decorating the blade and preparing the guards and pommel. Other artisans would likely be involved in the work of fashioning the hilt, sheath and other furniture; and in any fine decoration.

Polishing

When the rough blade is completed, the swordsmith turns the blade over to a polisher, whose job it is to refine the shape of a blade and improve its aesthetic value. The polishing process almost always takes longer than even crafting, and a good polish can greatly improve the beauty of a blade, while a bad one can ruin the best of blades. Early polishers used three types of stone, whereas a modern polisher generally uses seven.On high quality blades, only the back of the blade and the adjacent sides, are polished to a mirror-like surface. To bring out the grain and hamon, the center portion of the blade, and the edge are usually given a matte finish. Microscopic scratches in the surface vary, depending on hardness. Smaller but more numerous scratches in the harder areas reflect light differently from the deeper, longer scratches in the softer areas. The harder metal appears more matte than the softer, and the manner in which it scatters light is less affected by the direction of the lighting.

After the blade is finished it is passed on to a mountings-maker for fashioning the hilt, sheath and other mountings.

NOTICEInternational Buyers – Please Note:a) Import duties, taxes and charges are not included in the item price or shipping charges. These charges are the buyer’s responsibility.b) Please check with your country’s customs office to determine what these additional costs will be prior to offerding/buying.DELIVERY DETAILSThe shipment will be prepared and get shipment as soon as possible when you place the order. The shipping time is different according to the different area.
US: 10-15 days
AU: 8-12 days
Ca: 10-15 days
Others: 25-60 days
It is international shipment, so there are many factors influenced, please let us know if there is any question, we will try our best to make things right for you.